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Q: Can you improve the description of the debugging?

Asked by graylake on 2018-09-20 05:32:14

Coemption yes, will do it

2018-09-26 04:42:05 Helpful (0)
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Q: Can you improve the description of the debugging?

Asked by graylake on 2018-09-20 05:31:43

Bansil Ok

2018-09-26 03:41:05 Helpful (0)
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graylake 20/09/2018
I'm still assembling the radio. I paid for tracking and got it faster. Download the spreadsheet to determine the color of the LEDs. You'll need soldering tools and a good digital VOM. I bought a nice one at Lowe's for $44. I got the solder station at another site with variable control and many soldering bits and solder. You'll need to know color coding for resistors. Notice the dot on negative striped electrolytic capacitors match the board. One resistor slot was stamped wrong on the board but correct in the list and schematic. Remember that LEDs have a short lead on the cathode (negative) and long lead on the anode (positive). Red LED is D1. Green LED is D2. The instructions are confusing on the tuning transformers, but can be determined with deduction. I agree there is no help with tuning assembly or the three wire coil. I'm sure I'll get this figured out. Take time out to go slowly. Check each solder connection to be sure you don't over or under solder. Be sure to have a solder sipper if you bridge solder between two pads. I noticed the radio IC is direct soldered. Notice the IC package has a stamped impression for lead #1, which lines up to #1 on the opposite side (printed side) of the circuit board. Use the VOM to verify all resisters and tape them to a sheet of paper as you ID them by value and resister number. Then, you can remove these one-by-one as you attach to the PCB. I repeated for the mica and electrolytic capacitors. The tuning plexiglass was a little rough and unpolished. Not bad for the price though. This project is definitely for advanced electronic buffs, and it was great fun to go back to my roots in radio repair and construction. Thanks for putting this radio on the market.
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