This frame I bought for a spare quad (if I crash my main chameleon), but I was surprised about the performance. My build (photos) weights 326g - a ton lighter than my chameleon (-67g). I used not a single screw or bold from this kit. Part list: - FC+ESC's: Racerstar TattooF4S 30A - 4x RCX NK2204 2400KV FPV Racing Motor - RunCam Sparrow - VTX EWRF E709TM3 5.8G 48CH - Receiver FrSky XSR - Realacc UXII 5.8G 1.6dBi MMCX-90 Degree RHCP Antenna (was a total fail - I wait for a Foxeer pagoda with MMCX now) - Racerstar R5040X3 5040 3-blade propeller With this setup - esp. with the Racerstar propeller - I got a strong audible resonance at 215Hz, mostly at yaw. This a a bit con if you put a action cam on top: A bit jello and a strange sound is the result. I hope with other well balanced propellers this effect gets weaker but it is part of the frame design and my setting with the 5mm spacer. Pros: - not heavy, not fragile - thin arms, wide wheelbase for clean air - low profile, mass (battery) centered along the roll axis - good FPV camera protection, mount for standard cams - 2nd 30.5mm mounting position at the back for a VTX - very good battery position Cons: - strange 215Hz resonance (spacer-arm-spacer assembling) - approx 45° uptilt for a action cam - this frame isn't a racer! 25-30° are better here - no screws for 15mm height - no 28mm standoffs (only 25mm plus 3mm) - no additional "soft" parts like battery-pads, straps, stands... - need for 8mm M3 screws for the motors (5mm arms)! I didn’t crash it hard till today - so I can't tell anything about the robustness.

This frame I bought for a spare quad (if I crash my main chameleon), but I was surprised about the performance. My build (photos) weights 326g - a ton lighter than my chameleon (-67g). I used not a single screw or bold from this kit. Part list: - FC+ESC's: Racerstar TattooF4S 30A - 4x RCX NK2204 2400KV FPV Racing Motor - RunCam Sparrow - VTX EWRF E709TM3 5.8G 48CH - Receiver FrSky XSR - Realacc UXII 5.8G 1.6dBi MMCX-90 Degree RHCP Antenna (was a total fail - I wait for a Foxeer pagoda with MMCX now) - Racerstar R5040X3 5040 3-blade propeller With this setup - esp. with the Racerstar propeller - I got a strong audible resonance at 215Hz, mostly at yaw. This a a bit con if you put a action cam on top: A bit jello and a strange sound is the result. I hope with other well balanced propellers this effect gets weaker but it is part of the frame design and my setting with the 5mm spacer. Pros: - not heavy, not fragile - thin arms, wide wheelbase for clean air - low profile, mass (battery) centered along the roll axis - good FPV camera protection, mount for standard cams - 2nd 30.5mm mounting position at the back for a VTX - very good battery position Cons: - strange 215Hz resonance (spacer-arm-spacer assembling) - approx 45° uptilt for a action cam - this frame isn't a racer! 25-30° are better here - no screws for 15mm height - no 28mm standoffs (only 25mm plus 3mm) - no additional "soft" parts like battery-pads, straps, stands... - need for 8mm M3 screws for the motors (5mm arms)! I didn’t crash it hard till today - so I can't tell anything about the robustness.

This frame I bought for a spare quad (if I crash my main chameleon), but I was surprised about the performance. My build (photos) weights 326g - a ton lighter than my chameleon (-67g). I used not a single screw or bold from this kit. Part list: - FC+ESC's: Racerstar TattooF4S 30A - 4x RCX NK2204 2400KV FPV Racing Motor - RunCam Sparrow - VTX EWRF E709TM3 5.8G 48CH - Receiver FrSky XSR - Realacc UXII 5.8G 1.6dBi MMCX-90 Degree RHCP Antenna (was a total fail - I wait for a Foxeer pagoda with MMCX now) - Racerstar R5040X3 5040 3-blade propeller With this setup - esp. with the Racerstar propeller - I got a strong audible resonance at 215Hz, mostly at yaw. This a a bit con if you put a action cam on top: A bit jello and a strange sound is the result. I hope with other well balanced propellers this effect gets weaker but it is part of the frame design and my setting with the 5mm spacer. Pros: - not heavy, not fragile - thin arms, wide wheelbase for clean air - low profile, mass (battery) centered along the roll axis - good FPV camera protection, mount for standard cams - 2nd 30.5mm mounting position at the back for a VTX - very good battery position Cons: - strange 215Hz resonance (spacer-arm-spacer assembling) - approx 45° uptilt for a action cam - this frame isn't a racer! 25-30° are better here - no screws for 15mm height - no 28mm standoffs (only 25mm plus 3mm) - no additional "soft" parts like battery-pads, straps, stands... - need for 8mm M3 screws for the motors (5mm arms)! I didn’t crash it hard till today - so I can't tell anything about the robustness.

Overall this a decent frame, after your wrist has gotten over driving the arm bolts through 10mm of slightly too tight holes. The frame doesn't even need locknuts, the carbon is that tight. Every other hole like the fc standoffs and the camera holder is M3, just not the arms. Also you will need 4 28mm standoffs as you are only supplied with 25mm standoffs and 3mm washers. Suleve M3AS6 28mm should do the job And if you have a double stack fc forget it as you are only supplied with 4 arm spacers unlike the 8 in the photos Basically the only things wrong with it otherwise its a sturdy and reasonably light frame (Would supply photos but its not work atm)

Overall this a decent frame, after your wrist has gotten over driving the arm bolts through 10mm of slightly too tight holes. The frame doesn't even need locknuts, the carbon is that tight. Every other hole like the fc standoffs and the camera holder is M3, just not the arms. Also you will need 4 28mm standoffs as you are only supplied with 25mm standoffs and 3mm washers. Suleve M3AS6 28mm should do the job And if you have a double stack fc forget it as you are only supplied with 4 arm spacers unlike the 8 in the photos Basically the only things wrong with it otherwise its a sturdy and reasonably light frame (Would supply photos but its not work atm)

Overall this a decent frame, after your wrist has gotten over driving the arm bolts through 10mm of slightly too tight holes. The frame doesn't even need locknuts, the carbon is that tight. Every other hole like the fc standoffs and the camera holder is M3, just not the arms. Also you will need 4 28mm standoffs as you are only supplied with 25mm standoffs and 3mm washers. Suleve M3AS6 28mm should do the job And if you have a double stack fc forget it as you are only supplied with 4 arm spacers unlike the 8 in the photos Basically the only things wrong with it otherwise its a sturdy and reasonably light frame (Would supply photos but its not work atm)