It is an impressive induction heater working at 85 kHz frequency. I have added a little improvements : cooper contact for coil, a fan cooler and refractory sponge-brick as coil / crucible support. I have tested with a switching power supply with DC output of 24V /20A using a graphite crucible (33mm diameter and 30mm height); the current was aprox. 18A and the crucible has reach 900C in 3-4 minutes; first i have start the power supply then i have connected the induction heater. i recommend this induction heater.

It is an impressive induction heater working at 85 kHz frequency. I have added a little improvements : cooper contact for coil, a fan cooler and refractory sponge-brick as coil / crucible support. I have tested with a switching power supply with DC output of 24V /20A using a graphite crucible (33mm diameter and 30mm height); the current was aprox. 18A and the crucible has reach 900C in 3-4 minutes; first i have start the power supply then i have connected the induction heater. i recommend this induction heater.

It is an impressive induction heater working at 85 kHz frequency. I have added a little improvements : cooper contact for coil, a fan cooler and refractory sponge-brick as coil / crucible support. I have tested with a switching power supply with DC output of 24V /20A using a graphite crucible (33mm diameter and 30mm height); the current was aprox. 18A and the crucible has reach 900C in 3-4 minutes; first i have start the power supply then i have connected the induction heater. i recommend this induction heater.

Coil ID 1.700", OD ~2.160. Board (overall, including heat sinks) 4.400" x 3.950" x 1.520". All dims are approximate and rounded up to the next number that made any sense. Input voltage is marked for polarity (- terminal only) but neither voltage nor amperage are labeled. Again, like with the smaller unit, if you were hoping to receive some sort of documentation, you are out of luck. The copper tubing is not insulated so, despite the generous size of the coil, the electrical path will be quite short with the whole coil acting as if there is only a 1/8th turn unless you make the effort to isolate the tubing yourself. I've made no attempt to power this up yet, so all I can pass along are the physical attributes.

Coil ID 1.700", OD ~2.160. Board (overall, including heat sinks) 4.400" x 3.950" x 1.520". All dims are approximate and rounded up to the next number that made any sense. Input voltage is marked for polarity (- terminal only) but neither voltage nor amperage are labeled. Again, like with the smaller unit, if you were hoping to receive some sort of documentation, you are out of luck. The copper tubing is not insulated so, despite the generous size of the coil, the electrical path will be quite short with the whole coil acting as if there is only a 1/8th turn unless you make the effort to isolate the tubing yourself. I've made no attempt to power this up yet, so all I can pass along are the physical attributes.

Coil ID 1.700", OD ~2.160. Board (overall, including heat sinks) 4.400" x 3.950" x 1.520". All dims are approximate and rounded up to the next number that made any sense. Input voltage is marked for polarity (- terminal only) but neither voltage nor amperage are labeled. Again, like with the smaller unit, if you were hoping to receive some sort of documentation, you are out of luck. The copper tubing is not insulated so, despite the generous size of the coil, the electrical path will be quite short with the whole coil acting as if there is only a 1/8th turn unless you make the effort to isolate the tubing yourself. I've made no attempt to power this up yet, so all I can pass along are the physical attributes.

Very ggod device. The secret is that you need a big power supply. First I used a homemade ps from two transformers from microwave oven 40 v 25 A. Later I used a ps from a transformer 25 v and many many Amps from a cinema machine of 1970 s . I managed to get red a piece of iron of a 25 mm diameter in 90 sec. A good current is 20-32 V 15 A .Don' t use more than 20 A for alot of time to not burn the mosfets. The induction begins after 12 v.I used a fan from a microwave oven to keep the heatsink of the mosfet cool. In the big ps i used a 35 A bridgfe rectifier with big heatsink and afan from computer (12 v).Don' put items with diameter more than 3 cm and more tha 4-5 cm long to keep the amps less than 20.If you use a voltage regulator with triac on the primary of the transformer the voltage must be more than 150 v to not burn the bridge.It's better to use a variac to have always a full sine wave in every voltage you need.

Very ggod device. The secret is that you need a big power supply. First I used a homemade ps from two transformers from microwave oven 40 v 25 A. Later I used a ps from a transformer 25 v and many many Amps from a cinema machine of 1970 s . I managed to get red a piece of iron of a 25 mm diameter in 90 sec. A good current is 20-32 V 15 A .Don' t use more than 20 A for alot of time to not burn the mosfets. The induction begins after 12 v.I used a fan from a microwave oven to keep the heatsink of the mosfet cool. In the big ps i used a 35 A bridgfe rectifier with big heatsink and afan from computer (12 v).Don' put items with diameter more than 3 cm and more tha 4-5 cm long to keep the amps less than 20.If you use a voltage regulator with triac on the primary of the transformer the voltage must be more than 150 v to not burn the bridge.It's better to use a variac to have always a full sine wave in every voltage you need.

Very ggod device. The secret is that you need a big power supply. First I used a homemade ps from two transformers from microwave oven 40 v 25 A. Later I used a ps from a transformer 25 v and many many Amps from a cinema machine of 1970 s . I managed to get red a piece of iron of a 25 mm diameter in 90 sec. A good current is 20-32 V 15 A .Don' t use more than 20 A for alot of time to not burn the mosfets. The induction begins after 12 v.I used a fan from a microwave oven to keep the heatsink of the mosfet cool. In the big ps i used a 35 A bridgfe rectifier with big heatsink and afan from computer (12 v).Don' put items with diameter more than 3 cm and more tha 4-5 cm long to keep the amps less than 20.If you use a voltage regulator with triac on the primary of the transformer the voltage must be more than 150 v to not burn the bridge.It's better to use a variac to have always a full sine wave in every voltage you need.

Szybka wysyłka, szybko grzeje, na zdjęciu zasilacze serwerowe do zasilania. Przy większych mocach potrzebny wiatrak chłodzący i chłodzenie wodą. Polecam.

Szybka wysyłka, szybko grzeje, na zdjęciu zasilacze serwerowe do zasilania. Przy większych mocach potrzebny wiatrak chłodzący i chłodzenie wodą. Polecam.

Szybka wysyłka, szybko grzeje, na zdjęciu zasilacze serwerowe do zasilania. Przy większych mocach potrzebny wiatrak chłodzący i chłodzenie wodą. Polecam.

Voici un petit système de chauffage à induction très compact et pratique qui va m'être très utile pour mes bricolages, il me reste a lui faire un boitier

Voici un petit système de chauffage à induction très compact et pratique qui va m'être très utile pour mes bricolages, il me reste a lui faire un boitier

Voici un petit système de chauffage à induction très compact et pratique qui va m'être très utile pour mes bricolages, il me reste a lui faire un boitier

This very functional inductive heater has become a hot item. You can do many things with this system. Because of high current/stability. best to use 4 X 12 VDC leadgel batteries of minimal 12 AH (better 17AH) IN SERIE to feed this system Use one of the batteries to power a fan for the electronic parts too. Switshing powersupplies are less /not suitable, the fast slope of the drained current can interfere / not starting oscillation. So be wise , use as alternative a 1KW 35VAC ringwound trafo, rectifiers and a lot of switshingproof elco's in parallel. A Variac can be used but start up in full mode and than reduce voltage. When cooling s OK and powersupply is sufficient the only big problem is to start the oscillationprocess (It is self oscillating). !000Watt is quite a lot, the smaller ones I have bought first are already nasty heaters wich can heat up a nail in seconds.

This very functional inductive heater has become a hot item. You can do many things with this system. Because of high current/stability. best to use 4 X 12 VDC leadgel batteries of minimal 12 AH (better 17AH) IN SERIE to feed this system Use one of the batteries to power a fan for the electronic parts too. Switshing powersupplies are less /not suitable, the fast slope of the drained current can interfere / not starting oscillation. So be wise , use as alternative a 1KW 35VAC ringwound trafo, rectifiers and a lot of switshingproof elco's in parallel. A Variac can be used but start up in full mode and than reduce voltage. When cooling s OK and powersupply is sufficient the only big problem is to start the oscillationprocess (It is self oscillating). !000Watt is quite a lot, the smaller ones I have bought first are already nasty heaters wich can heat up a nail in seconds.

This very functional inductive heater has become a hot item. You can do many things with this system. Because of high current/stability. best to use 4 X 12 VDC leadgel batteries of minimal 12 AH (better 17AH) IN SERIE to feed this system Use one of the batteries to power a fan for the electronic parts too. Switshing powersupplies are less /not suitable, the fast slope of the drained current can interfere / not starting oscillation. So be wise , use as alternative a 1KW 35VAC ringwound trafo, rectifiers and a lot of switshingproof elco's in parallel. A Variac can be used but start up in full mode and than reduce voltage. When cooling s OK and powersupply is sufficient the only big problem is to start the oscillationprocess (It is self oscillating). !000Watt is quite a lot, the smaller ones I have bought first are already nasty heaters wich can heat up a nail in seconds.

The product is very poor quality. Transistors on the cooling radiators without thermal compound, one transistor does not fit the cooling radiator at all. One end of the winding of the drosel is not soldered in the board at all. When turning on on the sparing mode zadraschiem transistor.Ocht a very bad impression of the product.

Товар очень плохого качества.Транзисторы на радиаторах охлаждения без термопасты,один транзистор вообще не прилегает к радиатору охлаждения. Один конец обмотки дроселя вообще не впаян в плату.При включении на щадящем режиме задымел транзистор.Очень плохое впечатление о товаре.

The product is very poor quality. Transistors on the cooling radiators without thermal compound, one transistor does not fit the cooling radiator at all. One end of the winding of the drosel is not soldered in the board at all. When turning on on the sparing mode zadraschiem transistor.Ocht a very bad impression of the product.

Nagrzewnica działa dobrze , wymaga chłodzenia przy dłuższej pracy. Kiedy mam już podpięte zasilanie pod zasilacz i włączam go to nagrzewnica nie startuje za każdym razem . Ale jak podpinam przewód zasilający do włączonego już zasilacza to działa od razu OK . Widocznie powolny czas narastania napięcia przeszkadza w pewnym starcie nagrzewnicy.Tu na zdjęciu tak na próbę dałem 28v i 5,7A ,4mm gwoźdź się rozgrzał w jakieś 20-25s. Na luzie pobiera w tym momencie 28v i 3,6A . Dzisiaj przyszła więc to takie pierwsze uruchomienie

Nagrzewnica działa dobrze , wymaga chłodzenia przy dłuższej pracy. Kiedy mam już podpięte zasilanie pod zasilacz i włączam go to nagrzewnica nie startuje za każdym razem . Ale jak podpinam przewód zasilający do włączonego już zasilacza to działa od razu OK . Widocznie powolny czas narastania napięcia przeszkadza w pewnym starcie nagrzewnicy.Tu na zdjęciu tak na próbę dałem 28v i 5,7A ,4mm gwoźdź się rozgrzał w jakieś 20-25s. Na luzie pobiera w tym momencie 28v i 3,6A . Dzisiaj przyszła więc to takie pierwsze uruchomienie

Nagrzewnica działa dobrze , wymaga chłodzenia przy dłuższej pracy. Kiedy mam już podpięte zasilanie pod zasilacz i włączam go to nagrzewnica nie startuje za każdym razem . Ale jak podpinam przewód zasilający do włączonego już zasilacza to działa od razu OK . Widocznie powolny czas narastania napięcia przeszkadza w pewnym starcie nagrzewnicy.Tu na zdjęciu tak na próbę dałem 28v i 5,7A ,4mm gwoźdź się rozgrzał w jakieś 20-25s. Na luzie pobiera w tym momencie 28v i 3,6A . Dzisiaj przyszła więc to takie pierwsze uruchomienie

Used the heater to silver braze a very small SS tube to a much larger SS part. This was a problem with a torch since the parts were so dissimilar in size. The heating with the induction heater was very uniform and did an excellent job. Overheating of the flux was a problem with the torch, but not with the induction heater. Heating cycle was about 2.5 minutes.

Used the heater to silver braze a very small SS tube to a much larger SS part. This was a problem with a torch since the parts were so dissimilar in size. The heating with the induction heater was very uniform and did an excellent job. Overheating of the flux was a problem with the torch, but not with the induction heater. Heating cycle was about 2.5 minutes.

Used the heater to silver braze a very small SS tube to a much larger SS part. This was a problem with a torch since the parts were so dissimilar in size. The heating with the induction heater was very uniform and did an excellent job. Overheating of the flux was a problem with the torch, but not with the induction heater. Heating cycle was about 2.5 minutes.

Estoy haciendo unos experimentos, usando el circuito Geekcreit ZVS dentro de otro ideado por Tesla. Ya os contaré como me fue. Creo que con este circuito resuena con intensidad suficiente para hacer funcionar el circuito diseñado por Nikola Tesla. la Patente 685.957 : Método de utilización de la Energía Radiante la Patente 512.340 donde una genialidad de Nikola: la Bobina Bifilar tiene la clave de la resonancia armónica, es como condensador de flujo electro-plasmático, capaz de enfriar la energía de la Red Eléctrica: separar magnetismo y electricidad, resultando que el coseno de Phi de la energía consumida tiende a 0 significa que podemos ahorrar en consumo un 100 % y tener una nueva forma de energía eléctrica fresca, no peligrosa, saludable y natural.

Estoy haciendo unos experimentos, usando el circuito Geekcreit ZVS dentro de otro ideado por Tesla. Ya os contaré como me fue. Creo que con este circuito resuena con intensidad suficiente para hacer funcionar el circuito diseñado por Nikola Tesla. la Patente 685.957 : Método de utilización de la Energía Radiante la Patente 512.340 donde una genialidad de Nikola: la Bobina Bifilar tiene la clave de la resonancia armónica, es como condensador de flujo electro-plasmático, capaz de enfriar la energía de la Red Eléctrica: separar magnetismo y electricidad, resultando que el coseno de Phi de la energía consumida tiende a 0 significa que podemos ahorrar en consumo un 100 % y tener una nueva forma de energía eléctrica fresca, no peligrosa, saludable y natural.

Estoy haciendo unos experimentos, usando el circuito Geekcreit ZVS dentro de otro ideado por Tesla. Ya os contaré como me fue. Creo que con este circuito resuena con intensidad suficiente para hacer funcionar el circuito diseñado por Nikola Tesla. la Patente 685.957 : Método de utilización de la Energía Radiante la Patente 512.340 donde una genialidad de Nikola: la Bobina Bifilar tiene la clave de la resonancia armónica, es como condensador de flujo electro-plasmático, capaz de enfriar la energía de la Red Eléctrica: separar magnetismo y electricidad, resultando que el coseno de Phi de la energía consumida tiende a 0 significa que podemos ahorrar en consumo un 100 % y tener una nueva forma de energía eléctrica fresca, no peligrosa, saludable y natural.