This PCB is a boost converter that does what it says. However one has to follow the traces at the bottom to make this work. The input voltage can be taken from a mini USB Cable through a normal USB port. at J5. Follow the JP2 at the bottom of the board and permanently bridge the JP2 with solder if you intend using this method. Bridge the JP1 with solder if you intend using a 18650 Battery soldered to the J2 white input connector. In my case I used a 18650 LiIon battery in a battery holder for this purpose. If you do not solder any of the JP1 or JP2 this PCB will not work. One can also opt to solder wires directly to J1 input but unless you follow the + and - Terminals with a continuity tester do not use this method. Voltage on no load is 9.2Volts and at 150ma load is 9.0V. Ripple voltage on load was 21mv. Any higher load will increase the ripple voltage and destabilise the 9.0V supply. I have used it on the graphical transistor tester and even the DSO138 oscilloscope without any issues. Using 1 X 18650 battery, this will last for a very long time. Initial 18650 battery charge was 4.2V and after an hour of continuous use, the voltage dropped to 4.02V using Panasonic NCR18650B Battery 3500mah. I soldered a 9V battery clip to the output for easy connecting to 9V appliances for testing. Watch the polarity :D

This PCB is a boost converter that does what it says. However one has to follow the traces at the bottom to make this work. The input voltage can be taken from a mini USB Cable through a normal USB port. at J5. Follow the JP2 at the bottom of the board and permanently bridge the JP2 with solder if you intend using this method. Bridge the JP1 with solder if you intend using a 18650 Battery soldered to the J2 white input connector. In my case I used a 18650 LiIon battery in a battery holder for this purpose. If you do not solder any of the JP1 or JP2 this PCB will not work. One can also opt to solder wires directly to J1 input but unless you follow the + and - Terminals with a continuity tester do not use this method. Voltage on no load is 9.2Volts and at 150ma load is 9.0V. Ripple voltage on load was 21mv. Any higher load will increase the ripple voltage and destabilise the 9.0V supply. I have used it on the graphical transistor tester and even the DSO138 oscilloscope without any issues. Using 1 X 18650 battery, this will last for a very long time. Initial 18650 battery charge was 4.2V and after an hour of continuous use, the voltage dropped to 4.02V using Panasonic NCR18650B Battery 3500mah. I soldered a 9V battery clip to the output for easy connecting to 9V appliances for testing. Watch the polarity :D

This PCB is a boost converter that does what it says. However one has to follow the traces at the bottom to make this work. The input voltage can be taken from a mini USB Cable through a normal USB port. at J5. Follow the JP2 at the bottom of the board and permanently bridge the JP2 with solder if you intend using this method. Bridge the JP1 with solder if you intend using a 18650 Battery soldered to the J2 white input connector. In my case I used a 18650 LiIon battery in a battery holder for this purpose. If you do not solder any of the JP1 or JP2 this PCB will not work. One can also opt to solder wires directly to J1 input but unless you follow the + and - Terminals with a continuity tester do not use this method. Voltage on no load is 9.2Volts and at 150ma load is 9.0V. Ripple voltage on load was 21mv. Any higher load will increase the ripple voltage and destabilise the 9.0V supply. I have used it on the graphical transistor tester and even the DSO138 oscilloscope without any issues. Using 1 X 18650 battery, this will last for a very long time. Initial 18650 battery charge was 4.2V and after an hour of continuous use, the voltage dropped to 4.02V using Panasonic NCR18650B Battery 3500mah. I soldered a 9V battery clip to the output for easy connecting to 9V appliances for testing. Watch the polarity :D

It can use DSO138 Oscilloscope Kit . Also it can use DSO150 Oscilloscope Kit ! Very Good ! If use with USB input voltage . Short JP2 .

It can use DSO138 Oscilloscope Kit . Also it can use DSO150 Oscilloscope Kit ! Very Good ! If use with USB input voltage . Short JP2 .

It can use DSO138 Oscilloscope Kit . Also it can use DSO150 Oscilloscope Kit ! Very Good ! If use with USB input voltage . Short JP2 .

Funktioniert einwandfrei. Ich benutze den Booster z.B. um das DIY Oszilloskop-Kit (9V) am USB-Port zu betreiben. Zwei Dinge sind allerdings zu beachten... zum einen sollte der USB-Port genug Kraft haben um 9V-Geräte mit entsprechend höherem Verbrauch zu versorgen. Direkt am PC angeschlossen geht das meistens einwandfrei. Probleme gibt es aber bei den schwachbrüstigen Billig-USB-Hubs. Zum Zweiten muss vor der Inbetriebnahme der Port für die Eingangsspannung gewählt werden (USB oder Steckkontakt z.B. für LiPo-Akku). Dazu ist an der Unterseite der Platine der jeweilige Jumper kurzzuschließen (Lötbrücke).

Funktioniert einwandfrei. Ich benutze den Booster z.B. um das DIY Oszilloskop-Kit (9V) am USB-Port zu betreiben. Zwei Dinge sind allerdings zu beachten... zum einen sollte der USB-Port genug Kraft haben um 9V-Geräte mit entsprechend höherem Verbrauch zu versorgen. Direkt am PC angeschlossen geht das meistens einwandfrei. Probleme gibt es aber bei den schwachbrüstigen Billig-USB-Hubs. Zum Zweiten muss vor der Inbetriebnahme der Port für die Eingangsspannung gewählt werden (USB oder Steckkontakt z.B. für LiPo-Akku). Dazu ist an der Unterseite der Platine der jeweilige Jumper kurzzuschließen (Lötbrücke).

Funktioniert einwandfrei. Ich benutze den Booster z.B. um das DIY Oszilloskop-Kit (9V) am USB-Port zu betreiben. Zwei Dinge sind allerdings zu beachten... zum einen sollte der USB-Port genug Kraft haben um 9V-Geräte mit entsprechend höherem Verbrauch zu versorgen. Direkt am PC angeschlossen geht das meistens einwandfrei. Probleme gibt es aber bei den schwachbrüstigen Billig-USB-Hubs. Zum Zweiten muss vor der Inbetriebnahme der Port für die Eingangsspannung gewählt werden (USB oder Steckkontakt z.B. für LiPo-Akku). Dazu ist an der Unterseite der Platine der jeweilige Jumper kurzzuschließen (Lötbrücke).

Good power supply to convert USB power to 9V

Good power supply to convert USB power to 9V

Good power supply to convert USB power to 9V

merci a : billywhizzy pour le jumper jp2 pour batterie.

merci a : billywhizzy pour le jumper jp2 pour batterie.

merci a : billywhizzy pour le jumper jp2 pour batterie.

Kvalitetan proizvod. Moje preporuke.

Kvalitetan proizvod. Moje preporuke.

Kvalitetan proizvod. Moje preporuke.

That little thing does the expected job. I personally have few projects and kits that are powered with DC from roughly 5V up to 9V. Few exceptions are some 12V and 15V ones, but this is a different story. Nevertheless, as designed, it performs well with a 3.7V Li-On battery and delivers the needed 9V. With some adjustments (which voids the warranty, if any), I'm pretty sure this board can be easily adapted for other common voltages. Anyhow, if you happen to have even a few drops of electronic hobbyist blood in your veins, I'm convinced this would be an interesting circuit to experiment with. Also, the MC34063 chip has been around for decades, so this is some sort of a classic like the u741 and the 555, which still very much alive for basic but yet functional projects. By the way, if you're serious about knowing how this little thing works, I strongly suggest you the reading of "Application of the MC34063 Switching Regulator" from Texas Instruments.

That little thing does the expected job. I personally have few projects and kits that are powered with DC from roughly 5V up to 9V. Few exceptions are some 12V and 15V ones, but this is a different story. Nevertheless, as designed, it performs well with a 3.7V Li-On battery and delivers the needed 9V. With some adjustments (which voids the warranty, if any), I'm pretty sure this board can be easily adapted for other common voltages. Anyhow, if you happen to have even a few drops of electronic hobbyist blood in your veins, I'm convinced this would be an interesting circuit to experiment with. Also, the MC34063 chip has been around for decades, so this is some sort of a classic like the u741 and the 555, which still very much alive for basic but yet functional projects. By the way, if you're serious about knowing how this little thing works, I strongly suggest you the reading of "Application of the MC34063 Switching Regulator" from Texas Instruments.

That little thing does the expected job. I personally have few projects and kits that are powered with DC from roughly 5V up to 9V. Few exceptions are some 12V and 15V ones, but this is a different story. Nevertheless, as designed, it performs well with a 3.7V Li-On battery and delivers the needed 9V. With some adjustments (which voids the warranty, if any), I'm pretty sure this board can be easily adapted for other common voltages. Anyhow, if you happen to have even a few drops of electronic hobbyist blood in your veins, I'm convinced this would be an interesting circuit to experiment with. Also, the MC34063 chip has been around for decades, so this is some sort of a classic like the u741 and the 555, which still very much alive for basic but yet functional projects. By the way, if you're serious about knowing how this little thing works, I strongly suggest you the reading of "Application of the MC34063 Switching Regulator" from Texas Instruments.

Good thing to use DSO138 via USB, needed!

Good thing to use DSO138 via USB, needed!

Good thing to use DSO138 via USB, needed!

Good price and fast delivery. Everything is all right. I am pleased. Package are ok, device work perfect. They look ok, I tested all, and it is working great.

Good price and fast delivery. Everything is all right. I am pleased. Package are ok, device work perfect. They look ok, I tested all, and it is working great.

Good price and fast delivery. Everything is all right. I am pleased. Package are ok, device work perfect. They look ok, I tested all, and it is working great.

OK ... NOt Tested

OK ... NOt Tested

OK ... NOt Tested